Posted By G-LOC Brakes

Welcome to our Frequently Asked Questions. Here you will find answers to our most common questions and inquires. Please select a category below for more information on a specific topic or you can use the search bar feature to find the information you are looking for. If you don’t find the desired information you are searching for or if you may need a more specific answer to your question or inquiry, please feel free to contact us directly or e-mail info@g-locbrakes.com

  • 1. G-LOC Compounds & Applications
  • 2. Brake Fluid
  • 3. How to properly bed brake pads
  • 4. Troubleshooting Brake Problems
  • 5. Brake System Descriptions
  • 6. Friction
  • 7. Bleeding Brakes
  • 8. Return Policy and Disclaimer
Frequently asked questions about compounds and applications.
Frequently asked questions about brake fluid.
Frequently asked questions about bedding procedure and maintenance.
Frequently asked questions about troubleshooting brake procedures.
Frequently asked questions about brake system descriptions.
Frequently asked questions about friction.
Frequently asked questions about bleeding brakes
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  • 1. 1. What are the different compound choices/descriptions?

    G-Loc™ GS-1™
    The G-Loc™ GS-1™ is our high performance street compound. GS-1™ produces very little dust and very little noise, while maintaining excellent initial bite and torque for street use. GS-1 has been unmatched in the industry for disc/rotor friendliness as well as its longevity. This compound's excellent performance on the street provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. G-Loc™ GS-1™ operating range starts at ambient up to 800°F (426°C). GS-1™ is suitable for ALL street cars, tow vehicle, fleet vehicle, and armored vehicles. G-Loc™ GS-1™ is NOT recommended for ANY track use.

    G-Loc™ R6™
    The R6™ has been specifically engineered for Autocross applications. An ultra high cold torque compound delivering consistent performance from dead cold (0°F) up to 1000°F + (0°C to 537°C+). The advanced compound matrix provides an excellent initial bite, high coefficient of friction at lower temperatures along with very progressive brake modulation and release characteristics. The R6™ compound is widely used for street use as well, but this compound will more than likely make noise on the street. G-Loc™ doesn't recommend street driving on with R6™ due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise. R6™ is NOT recommended for road racing (closed circuit) use in most applications.

    G-Loc™ R8™
    A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range of 200°F-1250°F+ (93°C to 676°C+). G-Loc™ R8™ is the first of our extensive lineup of racing compounds. Good initial bite along with excellent modulation and release characteristics. Extremely high fade resistance and very rotor friendly. Perfect for track day use with any tire and can still be driven safely to and from the track. G-Loc™ does NOT recommended R8™ for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise. G-Loc™ R8™ is a popular compound for open wheel type of race cars. R8™ is also used on most Formula SAE team cars, along with shifter karts, dirt bikes, ATV's, and even Mountain bikes.

    G-Loc™ R10™
    The R10™ has a much strong initial bite and higher coefficient of friction than R8™. R10™ still maintains our smooth release, excellent modulation and rotor friendliness that have been engineered into all previous G-Loc™ compounds. The R10™ compound disc/rotor friendliness will lead the industry. R10™ broad temperature range and fade resistance is in excess of 1475°F (186°F /85°C - 801°C). G-Loc™ does NOT recommended R10™ for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise.

    G-Loc™ R12™
    Raising the bar even higher is the R12™ compound with an excellent initial bite, high and consistent torque, and outstanding fade resistance over and above The R12™ continues our excellent release and modulation that has been engineered into all previous G-Loc™ compounds. the R10™. R12™ has a temperature range of 200°F to 1860°F (93°C to 1015°C). The R12™ is slightly more disc/rotor aggressive than R10™ but more disc/rotor friendly compared to our competition. G-Loc™ does NOT recommended R12™ for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise.

    G-Loc™ R14™
    The R14™ compound was engineered for endurance racing with lighter weight, lower horsepower cars in mind. R14™ has solid initial bite, a little less modulation than the R10™ or R12™. R14™ has great fade resistance with a temperature range of 210°F to 1400°F (98°C to 760°C). R14™ is as rotor friendly as our R12™ compound. G-Loc™ does NOT recommended R14™ for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise.

    G-Loc™ R16™
    R16™ is an extremely aggressive initial bite, linear torque curve and excellent fade resistance compound from our lineup of R-Series™ compounds. The R16™ is a natural progression of the highly successful R-Series™ line of compounds from G-Loc™. R16™ has a temperature range of 255°F to 2000°F (123°C to 1093°C). G-Loc™ R16™ maintains our philosophy of modulation and release that has been the foundation of all other G-Loc™ R-Series™ compounds. G-Loc™ does NOT recommended R16™ for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise and the amount of heat needed to work properly.

    G-Loc™ R18™

    R18™ is the pinnacle compound of the R-Series™ compounds engineered by G-Loc™. R18™ is based on the same successful principals and fundamentals that exist in all other G-Loc™ R-Series™ formulations. R18™ has more initial bite, overall bite, and even more controllable torque. The R18™ offers the absolute most linear torque curve we have ever created. The thermal characteristics and coefficient of friction are of the highest offered by anyone in the braking industry. This revolutionary compound will lead the way in all major forms of racing (professionally and grassroots). R18™ has a temperature range of 610°F to 2100°F+ (321°C to 1149°C+). G-Loc™ does NOT recommended R16™ for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise and the amount of heat needed to work properly.

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  • 2. What is the difference between OE street (original equipment or any Auto Parts store pads) and GS-1 brake pads?

    The GS-1 high performance street compound was specifically engineered to withstand the abuse daily driving in all weather conditions can throw at it.  The GS-1 keeps performing in extreme heat to below freezing temperatures.  GS-1 offers more bite and torque, along with a greater wear rate and extremely easy on discs.  You're not going to find a more disc/disc friendly compound in the market.  Most OE pads have a temp ceiling of 350°F to 400°F (176°C to 204°C), our GS-1 has a temp ceiling of 800°F (427°C) It produces little to no noise, and very little brake dust compared to OE pads.

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  • 3. Which compound is best for my application?

    Which compound is best for your application varies from one car to another, and from one drivers style of driving to another driver’s style.  One drivers driving style and their vehicle might find the performance of the R10™ the best.  Another driver with the same car but different tires might find the R18™ best for their car.   Some variables are; is it going to be used for street, autocross, track day, road racing, or any combination of these? You can contact us or one of our authorized dealers to help you narrow it down the best setup.  Anyone you contact at G-Loc™ is a racer and track day enthusiast that have the technical knowledge and on-track experience to assist you.

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  • 4. How do I properly maintain my disc brake system?
    1. If you do NOT know how to do this, please see a trained professional.
    1. Regularly change the brake fluid by flushing out all old brake fluid and replacing it with new DOT 4 or higher brake fluid.
    2. Bleed the braking system after a complete flush as well as every few months to make sure there is no air in the lines
    3. Check for leaks by closely examining the calipers, hoses, master cylinder and all connections.
    4. Check fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir on a regular basis for an indication that there might be a leak somewhere.
    5. Check pad thickness on a regular basis.
    6. Check the caliper piston(s) to make sure they are extending and retracting properly.
    7. Check internal seals of the caliper piston(s) for leaks or tears.
    8. Make sure all brake hose(s) connections are nice and tight to prevent any leaks or from air getting into the braking system.
    9. Regularly check condition of discs for wide cracks, long cracks, or deep grooving.
    10. Make sure all wheels rotate freely without any brake drag.
    11. Wash with water (only) from time to time.
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  • 5. How many miles will I get from a set of G-LOC Brakes™ brake pads?

    There are too many variables to this question to give an accurate answer.  Those variables are:

    • Vehicle Type
    • Vehicle weight
    • Driving habits of the driver(s)
    • Braking system design
    • Front to rear brake bias
    • Weight distribution of vehicle
    • Is the vehicle being used for towing
    • Weight of the vehicle
    • How frequent the vehicle is driven
    • Terrain the vehicle is driven on
    • Plus, many more variables
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  • 6. Does G-LOC Brakes™ have brake pads for my application?

    At G-LOC Brakes™ we can customer design and make brake pads for any vechile, and we mean anything.  We don't just build pads for race cars and daily drivers, we can make brake pads for any race car, commercial applications, windmills, motorcycles, ATV's, snowmobiles, side-by-sides, military vehicles, farming tractors, humvee's (military and personal), police cars, buses, scooters, mopeds, trailers, legend cars, your NASCAR™ race car and go-karts.  We might carry your backing plates but if we do not then we will try to get some from one of our vendors.  If our vendors do not carry them and also as an option, you can send us your core/used pads in tact or just the backing plates and we can clean them up and reline them with any of our brake compounds we sell.

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  • 7. What are the main differences between street and track pads?

    Street cars purchased by consumers are made for long term casual normal use and are not normally stopping from high velocity to a much lower speed over and over.  While this occasionally occurs on the street if you slam on your brakes, you don't normally do that over and over with the associated heat build up you see at the race track.

    Track brake pad compounds have to be engineered to withstand the abuse of frequent hard braking, extremely hard braking and done under intense heat and pressure.  Track pads need to be engineered for the rapid and constant build up of heat along with rapid cooling.  This all is repeated lap after lap for hours.  The amount of abuse brake pads and the entire braking systems go through is simply astonishing.  To make it more complex, certain vehicles require more bite, torque, heat capacity, and a broader heat range than other vehicles.  This is why we offer 7 different types of track compounds.  There is also an element of weight to heat to pad application as well.

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  • 1. What is a master cylinder?

    The master cylinder is a control device that converts physical pressure from a driver's foot applying pressure on the brake pedal, into hydraulic pressure to the entire braking system (calipers).

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  • 2. A word of caution: SILICONE BRAKE FLUIDS

    G-Loc™ Performance Brakes does not sell silicone brake fluids nor recommends their use with any braking system.

    Virtually all of the problems with silicone brake fluids reflect certain properties of silicone fluids identified by us over many years and recently ratified in SAE publications, specifically: high ambient viscosity; high air absorption; high compressibility; low lubricity; and immiscibility with water. Research has shown that these properties of silicone fluid result three performance problems:

    Long Pedal Travel or “Spongy” Pedal caused by:

    1. High compressibility, up to three times that of glycol based fluids;
    2. High viscosity, twice that of glycol based fluids, leading to slow rates of fill and retention of free air entrapped during filling, and hence bleeding difficulties.

    A Sudden Loss of Braking resulting from:

    1. Air absorption - gasification of absorbed air at relatively low temperature produces vapor lock effect;
    2. Immiscibility (failure to mix) with water - whilst the presence of dissolved water will reduce the boiling point of glycol based fluids, any free water in silicone-filled systems will boil and produce vapor lock at much lower temperatures (100°C or thereabouts)

    “Hanging On” of brakes due to:

    1. Low lubricity - in disc brake systems the sole mechanism for normalization of system pressure upon release of pedal pressure is a designed-in tendency of seals to recover to their ‘at rest’ attitude. Low lubricity works against this tendency.
    2. High viscosity exacerbates the effects of low lubricity.  The high price of silicone fluids does not produce higher performance in hard driving or even normal road use.
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  • 3. How do I bleed my brakes with a mechanical/power bleeder?

    Follow the instructions that came with your mechanical/power bleeder.  Consulting with a professional technician is recommended.

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  • 4. Can brake fluid damage brake pads?

    Yes, absolutely! This is exactly why it's extremely important to have your brake fluid (hydraulic) system in good working order.  This doesn’t mean that you have to throw away your brake pads.  To clean the contaminated compounds off place them down on concrete with the friction material facing up.  Please do this outside of a home or building in a safe environment.  Then, take a hand torch and go side to side (left to right) across the surface of the brake pads to burn off the brake fluid.  You can also take the brake pads to a surface grinder to take off the contaminated friction material if you do not want to use a torch. G-Loc Brakes, LLC recommends consulting with a properly trained technician before performing this procedure.

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  • 5. How do I bleed my brakes manually?
    1. This will take two people to accomplish properly.  First, always start at the corner furthest from the driver and work your way towards the driver/master cylinder (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.).  Remember farthest to closest.
    2. Then, find the bleeder screw (bleeder valve) on the caliper (rear caliper).  Attach a piece of clear tubing to the nipple of the bleeder screw.
    3. Next, have your assistant apply the brake pedal and hold down firmly.  Then open the bleed screw ¼ turn to release the fluid into the waste line.  Make sure to NEVER have the driver release the brake pedal while the screw is open.  Make sure to close the bleed screw first and then have the driver release the brake pedal.
    4. Continue the bleeding process (steps 1-3) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel, make sure to keep the fluid level at the MAX line.
    5. Then, move to the next caliper and repeat all steps (1-4) until you have repeated this process at all four corners.
    6. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel and make sure the pedal is high from the floor.  At this point you should be done if all steps were followed correctly.
    7. Please discard of any and all used brake fluid responsibly.
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  • 6. What does "bleed" and "flush" my brake system mean?

    When you bleed the brakes this is the procedure for releasing any air or moisture trapped in your brake fluid system.  Flushing or changing your brake fluid consists of flushing the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder, brake lines, and calipers while replacing it with fresh fluid.

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  • 7. What is brake fluid?

    Brake fluid is hygroscopic.  Hygroscopic is the ability of a substance to attract and hold water molecules from the surrounding environment. This is achieved through either absorption or adsorption with the absorbing or adsorbing substance becoming physically changed somewhat.   A new bottle is considered "dry" with a higher boiling point.  However, since it's a hygroscopic fluid it will absorb water over time lowering its boiling point to the "wet" level.

    When it comes to boiling points for your daily driver the wet boiling point number is more important than dry because the fluid stays in your car for a long period of time.  After months or years of changing climate conditions (temperature & humidity) the brake fluid performance is closer to the wet boiling point than the dry boiling point.

    Once brake fluid soaks up moisture it thickens and will not be able to withstand the heat created under the pressure of heavy braking. What happens next is a significant drop in performance and in the fluids boiling temperature. When the fluid boils it turns some of the brake fluid into vapor and forms air bubbles.  The end result is a soft or spongy brake pedal.  Another indication of this is there will be significantly more pedal travel.

    G-Loc Brakes, LLC does not recommend using a silicone based brake fluid with any of its products. For more information, please scroll down to the bottom of the page to the section labeled “A word of caution.”

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  • 8. Why should I bleed or flush my braking system?

    To remove moisture, air, atmospheric dirt, and abrasive metal wear particles from moving parts in the master cylinder and calipers that have entered the system. Brake fluid needs to be replaced periodically because brake fluid will absorb moisture over time which can lower the boiling point enough to make it boil at very low temperatures.  Moisture is very compressible which will give you a soft (spongy) pedal.  This will occur whether a vehicle has been driven 50,000 miles over the course of a year, or if the vehicle has been sitting in your garage for a year.  Brake fluid contamination is a function of time and humidity, and has nothing to do with the mileage driven or not driven. Moisture can enter the brake system through seals, connection points, calipers, the master cylinder reservoir, and through microscopic pores in the hoses. Please note that moisture can enter your brake fluid system every time the fluid reservoir is opened.  Please try to not open your brake fluid reservoir unnecessarily.

    Vehicles with antilock braking systems (ABS) are even less tolerant of contaminated fluid and air than non-ABS vehicles. The ABS hydraulic pump operates at several thousand psi, forcing brake fluid through very small valves. This can whip air and brake fluid into something like the foam on a latte. This can make bleeding extremely difficult for an individual to do without the proper equipment. Those same valves and pump can be damaged by these tiny abrasive particles.

    Air that has entered the ABS controller can be bled out but most likely requires the use of an expensive (and sometimes proprietary) ABS scan tool to cycle the pump and valves to purge the last of the air and foam.  G-Loc Brakes, LLC recommends consulting with a properly trained technician before bleeding your brakes.

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  • 1. What’s the proper way to bed G-LOC Brakes™ R-Series compounds?

    On your out lap (1st lap time on track) on the track perform a few near stops.  This will get the two surfaces (disc and pad) to mate up and put down a transfer layer into the micro-grooves on the discs.  Then, drive like normal (but back up your regular braking marker/point) for about 3-5 laps.  During your 3-5 laps at some point you should feel the pads fade all of a sudden; at that point back off the throttle and cruise back to your paddock spot and stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and let the car sit for NO Less than an hour.  DO NOT run more than 5 laps at speed while performing the bedding process (even if you don't feel them fade).   Allow brake pads and discs to cool down to ambient temperatures.

    NOTE: Do NOT try and bed your track pads on the street.  The only way to properly bed them is on a race track (closed circuit).

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  • 2. Do discs require a bedding process?

    Brake discs do not require a detailed procedure as brake pads require.  By following the brake pad bed-in procedure will result in your discs being completely bedded.  If you purchase pre-bedded pads from G-Loc™ then all you need to do is install the pads and hit the brakes 3-5 times (while driving).  This will get the two surfaces (disc and pad) to mate up and put down a transfer layer into the micro-grooves on the discs.  You should always clean a new disc’s surface before installing.  By cleaning the disc surface, you will have completely removed any and all surface residue and debris that might contaminate or damage the brake pads.

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  • 3. How do I clean or resurface my used discs/rotors?

    If you have another manufacturers brake pad materials on your discs, then you definitely need to clean them up or get them turned by a professional before installing G-Loc™ brake pads.   To clean your discs, use a power sander with no less than 80 grit sand paper, and some brake clean to the disc surface.  This is to break up any of the other material on the disc surface.  DO NOT get any brake clean on the G-Loc brake pads.

    If you have had ONLY G-Loc™ brake pads on your discs, then there is no need to resurface or turn them.

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  • 4. Why should I bed-in brake pads?

    Proper bedding of pads & discs will result in greater performance and longer pad life along with improved disc/disc wear.  Failure to properly bed in your pads will lead to increased wear of the pads.  It can also lead to glazing of both the pads and discs.  The end result of glazing is significantly reduced levels of fiction (bite & torque) and the buildup of unnecessary heat which can cause the brake fluid to boil.  Improperly bedding pads can also cause the friction materials to start chunking and breaking up.  At G-Loc we can "pre-bed" brake pads for you.  Ask your dealer or G-Loc technical representative about our "pre-bedded" pads.

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  • 5. Do I need to get new discs/rotors?

    Although a good idea, you don't have to start with new brake pads and new discs.  If you want to keep your current discs, then you need to clean them up (see below).

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  • 1. My brake pedal slowly sinks (lowers) to the floor and does not come back up, why?

    You most likely have a fluid leak in your brake system or a bad master cylinder.  Another reason for this is you might not have tightened your bleed screw on one or more of your calipers.

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  • 2. Why do I need to use a lot of force on my brake pedal?

    This is most likely the case of improperly bed brake pads.  Once the pads and discs are glazed the amount of friction (bite and torque) is greatly reduced.  This could also be the result of choosing the incorrect brake pad compound for your application.

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  • 3. Pedal is low when I first step on it, if I pump it the brake pedal comes up, why?

    A low brake pedal that has to be pumped may be due to a low fluid level and/or air in the lines.

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  • 4. Why does brake fluid boil?

    Brake fluid is subjected to very high temperatures.  It must have a high boiling point to avoid vaporizing in the lines. This vaporization is a problem because vapor is highly compressible relative to liquid, and therefore negates the hydraulic transfer of braking force from the master cylinder to the calipers.  The end result is the brakes will fail to stop the car.

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  • 5. Why did I lose my brake pedal during my track event?

    In most cases this is a result of boiling your brake fluid.  Another of the usual suspects are faulty master cylinder or a leak in either the caliper or the brake lines.

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  • 6. What causes discs to warp?

    The most common reason is over-torqued or unevenly torqued lug nut(s).  Making sure you use a proper torque wrench with all four wheels on the ground is the best approach.  The use of an impact wrench is NOT recommended.  Your vehicles manual will indicate the proper torque rating (ft-lbs). After you tighten one lug nut, the next one you tighten should be diagonal from it.

    Another primary cause of warping is caused by excessive heat.  This is why choosing the best compound and running proper brake fluid is extremely important.

    Riding the brakes lightly will generate a great amount of heat and is not the proper way to apply the brakes on a vehicle.  The proper way is to apply the brakes strongly for a shorter distance and then completely release the brakes.  This will allow the brakes to cool before the next application.  Racing brake pad compounds are engineered to properly handle this type of extremely high temperatures.

    Not all pedal pulsation is due to warped discs. Brake pad material operating outside of its designed temperature range can leave a thicker than normal deposit in one area of the disc surface, creating a "warped" disc feeling for the driver.

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  • 7. Why am I getting oscillating feedback?

    Cracked discs or pad material build-up on the disc surface.  Excessive disc run out is another reason for oscillating feedback.

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  • 8. What causes brakes to squeal?

    Brake squeal often happens during the first few hundred miles of use as pads bed in to a new or used discs.  It's best to wait until you have about 1,000 miles (1,609km) before determining if there is a noise problem with your pads.  Some pads have metal wear sensors that when the pad material gets low the wear sensor(s) make contact with the disc causing them to squeal.  This is to let the driver know that their pads are low and need to be replaced.  Loosely fitted pads in the caliper will make noise.  Debris caught between the brake pad and disc.

    Loose or missing brake hardware such as anti-rattle clips and/or shims.  There are steel springs and pins which allow the pads mounted in the brake calipers to move freely without rattling and vibrating excessively. However, these pins and springs wear and lose their tension over time resulting in binding and squealing.

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  • 9. What causes brakes to drag?
    1. Warped discs
    2. Bad master cylinder
    3. Caliper spread - which can lead to tapered brake pads
    4. Calipers are not square to discs
    5. Caliper piston(s) are not retracting properly causing one or more pads to constantly make contact with the disc surface.
    6. Debris in the caliper that’s not allowing the brake pads to retract properly.
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  • 10. What causes a soft (spongy) pedal?

    A soft or spongy pedal is most likely the result of air in the brake system.  Air bubbles may have entered the system because the fluid level got too low.  The air could have been from a small leak in the brake hose(s) or a leak at the master cylinder.  Always check to make sure the cap is tight on the braking reservoir. Boiling your brake fluid will cause a soft pedal as well.  There could be a hole in one of your brake hoses.  There could be a tear in the brake caliper piston seal(s).  Incorrect size of the master cylinder (too small), or calipers not mounted square to the disc are other reasons.

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